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View Full Version : Modifying figures.. help! :-)



Xelizarios-Prime
02-21-2011, 07:43 PM
Hello,

I have a 4 inch figure of Elwing from Shining Tears/Wind (for those not familiar, she's a virtual clone of "Deedlit" from "Lodoss War", blonde hair, long pointed ears, etc.) that I painted. I tried to paint over her panties and bra to make her nude. The paint has dried but you can still see the clothes. This figure is plastic/resin.

Another issue with another figure - I tried to repaint it but the paint is clumpy and uneven and I need to file it off so I can try and repaint and salvage the figure. (non nude on this one)

What is a good tool to file things off on a figure like this? And for those who do stuff like this, where do you get your tools? Any good sites?

Thanks! Very much appreciated.

God bless. :-)

Xelizarios-Prime
02-21-2011, 07:45 PM
BTW- I apologize if I put this in the wrong category. I tried to determine which category this went under. "dolls" seemed like the closet one.

vilmaxiii
02-22-2011, 08:00 PM
a dremel tool with sanding bits would work i got mine at walmart a few years back it come with a bunch of changable bits!!
sand away slowly to not deform shape to much!! and as for the paint being clumpy what paints do you use? you can just paint on a thick layer you need to do a few super thin layers .. my dremel cost about 24 bux not to bad shop around even places like homedepot have stuff youll need. and even hand sanding works good start with 400 grit then use high grits up tp 1000. i can see a few seams on your figure so i see your new to kits as well just keep praticing and hit youtube mcandy85 has a good begginer tutorial!! good luck

devone23
02-23-2011, 12:17 AM
Agreed, if you can find a cheap Dremel tool or other rotary tool and some sanding bits on Ebay or something, that would help you out a lot. I would say if you want to sand off her bikini by hand, don't start with 400 grit or you'll be sanding for hours and hours. I'd go for 100-150 first.

Xelizarios-Prime
02-23-2011, 01:15 AM
Agreed, if you can find a cheap Dremel tool or other rotary tool and some sanding bits on Ebay or something, that would help you out a lot. I would say if you want to sand off her bikini by hand, don't start with 400 grit or you'll be sanding for hours and hours. I'd go for 100-150 first.

@ Vilmaxiii also --

Thanks for the info. I will check that out. Just I figure I gotta be careful. It's a 4" figure so it's small.

the paint I used is shown on my blog. nyrvasrealm.blogspot.com -- it's an acrylic paint made by art deco. It was better than another paint I bought that was thick and clumpy and had no spread. I admit I am a total noob at this. So any info is helpful on this.

The creases on the figure at the hips are where the legs come off/attach. In fact I took it apart to paint it. The leaf things on the sides come off too. But they have pegs with holes. Not sure what I would use to fill that in or smooth over where the legs come off to seal the seems. Unless there is some type of brush-on resin or something?

Also I realize too I need to grind/sand off those things under her boobs, part of the bra part of the outfit.

But then I always hear resin has to be charged with a current so the paint sticks or something. Or, do they have a modeling resin?

sorry, I'm rambling here. Like I said I am a total noob at this.

Thanks again! Any additional thoughts will be helpful. :-)

vilmaxiii
02-23-2011, 10:24 AM
do you have any toys even plastic ones to practice sanding and modifying with first ,that way you dont ruin a figure you realy like..? ill post something on your mold making thread as that why you probly want to make recasts to mod and practice on, i too am woring on mold makeing so i can have recasts to pratice on!!

Xelizarios-Prime
02-23-2011, 11:17 PM
I should swipe some from my dad's house. My bratty step-nephew is always leaving crap lay around! lol! Seriously though I think I got some crappy stuff I don't care about. Hell, McFarlane makes a lot of crappy stuff that falls apart and corrodes as soon as you take it out of the package, I swear! I got some of their "attempts" at anime figures that just aren't worth mentioning because in spite of my best efforts to take care of them they've been falling apart. Maybe I can practice on that stuff! lol!

Thing is if you cast resin figures and say you make a good one you want to keep, doesn't the resin have to be electrically charged so the paint sticks? I heard you have to do that or something.

Can't wait to start working with the polymer clay and sculpting some of my own stuff.

I'm definitely looking forward to your post. Being a total noob I'm anxious to learn whatever I can.

That paint- it's called Calypso and it's made by Art Deco. I am not sure if there are better paints?

Thanks again. :-)

vilmaxiii
02-24-2011, 10:32 AM
any acyrilcs paints should be fine if the are thind out with a paint/acryilic thinner.. if you use water to thin out then the paint is likely to chip right off.

and not all resins need to be charged at least not gk's u just need good primer,, i looked around cause i was unsure what primer to use and auto primer for cars works good.. you can use white or a gray tinted primer..
and yea mess around with a few of the unneed figures.. mcfarlane figs do fal apart iv noticed so my ryoko fig from them i kept in a case so she dont die lol cause i just love ryoko!!! orderd a kit a few weeks ago of her caint wait till she arrives!!!

vilmaxiii
02-24-2011, 10:35 AM
its been a while scene if sculpted<damn winter> my art rooms in an attic so all winter i just collect things to do for the spring and summer!! and so far springs not looking to be hear anytime soon,, so much for global warming, it's more like global moisterizing!!

i have a few gk to paint in the spring i also have some OOAK dolls i need to turn into lady gaga and annie lenox for selling at an art ooak show in july!
also have some printable shrinkydinks to play with in the mean time!! haha got to keep busy!!

Xelizarios-Prime
02-25-2011, 01:37 AM
I got the Ryoko figure- but that's my beef- it's fallenn to crap along with the crappy Spawn figures I bought. In fact the only Spawn that is still worth a darn is the Cyber Spawn figure I have. But I'll sacrifice the crappy Spawn figures first. I may spare Ryoko- in fact I may try to restore that one day. Who knows. I got some other crap I can use as pawns when I get my dremel!

I need to get a case or something myself to keep figures in.

also need to figure out how to seal my paint jobs on the figures I restore successfully.

Hope you like the Ryoko figure. I thought the figure looked great but it'll fall apart if you take it out of the package. I also have the Armitage III figure but that wasn't done as well.

Xelizarios-Prime
02-25-2011, 01:47 AM
its been a while scene if sculpted<damn winter> my art rooms in an attic so all winter i just collect things to do for the spring and summer!! and so far springs not looking to be hear anytime soon,, so much for global warming, it's more like global moisterizing!!

i have a few gk to paint in the spring i also have some OOAK dolls i need to turn into lady gaga and annie lenox for selling at an art ooak show in july!
also have some printable shrinkydinks to play with in the mean time!! haha got to keep busy!!

I hear ya. I'm waiting another 3-4 weeks before I start sculpting. Want to be able to ventilate my place when I do that stuff. So right now I'm sticking to my drawings and some other side projects. :-)

Shrinkydinks? I haven't seen those in years! They still make those?

secretasianman
03-02-2011, 05:27 AM
I haven't reviewed the entire thread so forgive me if this wasn't already covered, but if your end goal is a nude figure, carving down the clothed details with a x-acto before filing and fine sanding may be the most efficient and desirable route.

Can you describe the material in greater depth? Plastic/resin is a bit broad - is it firm yet slightly flexible like gashapon or firmer like model or toy plastic? IF it's the former, I'd worry more about the dremel melting or chewing the material. In fact even if it's the latter a dremel may yield the same unexpected results.

FYI Another useful tool that belongs in your arsenal is a surfacing primer. It's flat, and grainy and helps details and surface imperfections, etc. respond really well to light so you can see them!

http://www.hobbywave.com/search?q=mr+surfacer&c=0

If you've seen a lot of works in progress perpetually covered in gray paint, that's surfacer in action! A simple shot of surfacer on your work-in-progress, and areas that may require more work will almost literally present itself clear as day. Think of the surfacer as a guide coat for checking your work. Apply, address, re-apply to verify repeat if necessary.

Exhibit A: a (stalled) work in progress
http://www.gkjapan.com/showthread.php?1099-WIP-tutorial-Kayama-chan!&p=10971&viewfull=1#post10971
This particular kit was cast in white which makes sanding an eyestrain no matter what kind of lighting you choose. After a spritz of surfacer, note how the seams and sanding scratches pop out as dramatic as a black and white photograph. These are bits that need more time under the sandpaper.

Other pluses :
acts as a medium for regular paint to stick to surfaces (primer)
can be used as filler for the really small imperfections too small for putty

Xelizarios-Prime
03-02-2011, 04:34 PM
I haven't reviewed the entire thread so forgive me if this wasn't already covered, but if your end goal is a nude figure, carving down the clothed details with a x-acto before filing and fine sanding may be the most efficient and desirable route.

Can you describe the material in greater depth? Plastic/resin is a bit broad - is it firm yet slightly flexible like gashapon or firmer like model or toy plastic? IF it's the former, I'd worry more about the dremel melting or chewing the material. In fact even if it's the latter a dremel may yield the same unexpected results.

FYI Another useful tool that belongs in your arsenal is a surfacing primer. It's flat, and grainy and helps details and surface imperfections, etc. respond really well to light so you can see them!

http://www.hobbywave.com/search?q=mr+surfacer&c=0

If you've seen a lot of works in progress perpetually covered in gray paint, that's surfacer in action! A simple shot of surfacer on your work-in-progress, and areas that may require more work will almost literally present itself clear as day. Think of the surfacer as a guide coat for checking your work. Apply, address, re-apply to verify repeat if necessary.

Exhibit A: a (stalled) work in progress
http://www.gkjapan.com/showthread.php?1099-WIP-tutorial-Kayama-chan!&p=10971&viewfull=1#post10971
This particular kit was cast in white which makes sanding an eyestrain no matter what kind of lighting you choose. After a spritz of surfacer, note how the seams and sanding scratches pop out as dramatic as a black and white photograph. These are bits that need more time under the sandpaper.

Other pluses :
acts as a medium for regular paint to stick to surfaces (primer)
can be used as filler for the really small imperfections too small for putty


Hello secretasianman! :-)

Let's see! That's hard to describe as far as the materials go. For example - I have a catgirl figure I just repainted - still some cleanup work. I posted it on my blog actually.



Repainting Figures Pt.2 - repainting a Catgirl fig... (http://nyrvasrealm.blogspot.com/2011/03/repainting-figures-pt2-repainting.html)

(Actually even though I am a beginner myself, I hope my blog will serve to help others who want to get into this thing too. But I cover photomanip and art stuff too on the blog. You can go there if you want to see my photomanip of my U.S.S. Enterprise model where I altered the photo, added lights, and dropped a custom-made star field behind it.)

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And I'm including a picture to show a size comparison using a quarter, a penny, a ruler and a thumb drive.

THAT figure feels like a hard rubber/plastic.

Most of my other figures just feel like plastic to me, so I assume resin? Many of them are Gashapon and trading figures usually no more than 4 inches (10 cm) tall.

Here is the elf figure I was modifying - I used coins and a ruler again for size comparison:

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Of course I'm not trying to do all nudes but yeah I want to do some. I've also disassembled one of two Bome Jungle Emi (http://www.amazon.com/Bome-Collection-11-Jungle-Figure/dp/B000GPWZ16/ref=wl_itt_dp_o?ie=UTF8&coliid=I3DWNJS7B8JRFU&colid=3P2OONH7KC9T1) (#11 - the original) I have which is roughly a 9 inch (23cm) figure to study the structure and assembly. The left leg actually does come off and the body of the figure is hollow inside. But I was trying to study the whole makeup of the figure. And now that I have it apart I can modify and even cast clones of it. So I'm saving it for that purpose. I got another one I'm going to leave untouched because I like the figure.

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Funny you mention that about the dremel -- it sounds like a great idea and I plan to get one in case I need it. But somehow I'm thinking a dremel would totally grind the crap out of my figures -- at least the small ones. I was wondering if there are some hand filing and sanding tools that will be just as effective without doing too much damage to the figures. I may work with a dremel down the road. I will probably buy one in either case so I have it if I need it. But I am somehow thinking I need tools that are hand tools rather than power tools so I have more control over filing/grinding/sanding down things.

I figured I will also need to find some brush-on resin (if there is such a thing?) and something to smooth out surfaces, fill in any holes, etc.

Plus - I would love to modify a copy of the Jungle Emi Bome figure to make her and elf and reshape the hair so it looks like my character "Nyrva" (my avatar) rather than Bome's "Emi". Stuff like that.

Any recommendations?

Also how do you tell what kind of plastic a figure is made of? I notice some figures feel smoother than others and some of them - especially the Gashapon/Trading Figures tend to be a bit more flexible. I assume it's a different compound as you mentioned?

On that other thread about the GK magazines you talked about the prices of the figures. That's why I'm not so into collecting anymore and want to get into sculpting. For the price of one of those $300 PVC figures off J-list-- how many figures can I get for that price if I get the materials and start making my own? Nude, clothed, or both or whatever! I want to make creatures too! Dragons, Griffins, Unicorns, etc. eventually. I have a few characters that are creatures like that. My most popular of them has been my black unicorn "Shadowmere".

Plus you think of licensing - if it's my own character, I created it, so then I own it, so I can sell it if I decide to go that route! I don't have to license a darn thing because it's mine to start with. So then I can produce and reproduce as many as I want if it's my character to begin with.

But I don't have any intention of copying licensed figures to sell. I'm old school. Just like I also don't give out copies of anime fansubs once they are licensed. If they go out of print and the license expires that's another story. But I try to respect other people's right because I want mine respected the same way. That's me. I want anime videos to succeed and be profitable so it's available, so I won't infringe on a license.

Anyways, I'm off the soap box! :-)

Sorry I just love these types of threads. I have been searching a long time for a forum like this. Other people who share like hobbies, etc.

Anyone on here in the Cincinnati area? Would be cool to hang out! :-)

But yeah, I appreciate any and all advice! I'm not even a NOVICE, I'm basically getting into this so I'm a noob!


Cheers! God bless!

BTW- Thank you for tha link. I'm always checking out stuff like this. And I hope to share some of my own for other people's benefit as I get more into this. I'm doing what I can on my blog.

:evillaugh: And this? This is what happens when you play against ME on Armagetron Advance! haha!

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