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CheedoWan
04-24-2006, 03:00 PM
Hi guys, like I said in my previous post about the airbrush advice, I still have some questions about the GK modeling stuff… I have read several tutorials and sites regarding the topic, I know that the best way is try and error, but then again I think it does you no harm to have some advice of the pros before hand, in order to avoid lame mistakes, and to have a better view of what I have to do… sooo if you guys don’t mind here is a list of some questions of the stuff I’m not really sure of :unsure: :

1. After removing the flash and sanding the seam lines, the next step is the drilling of the holes for the wires that support the pieces of the kit, this is also the test fit, the question here is, to fill the gaps I have read that is good to use polyester putty, but does de filling comes before or after the painting/gluing of the pieces? is polyester putty really the only one you can use for that matter?

2. Talking about drilling and wires, I use a 1/16 drill and #16 aluminum wire, is there a special wire or can it be just about anything? Does the wire have to be glued to the piece, or just make it a tight fit?

3. Is staying at 400 grit sand paper OK, or do I have to go all the way to 600 or 800?

4. Do you really have to paint every piece separately, or can you glue the ones that won’t be hard to mask, and only leave the more complicated ones at the end? Because if you do one by one when you glue them you’ll have to paint that area again, or if you did a good test fit/gap fill this won’t be necessary?

5. I bought some Mr. Cement glue… but it seems that it’s not very good with large pieces, is there another brand that might work better than this one?
6. Can Mr. Surfacer 1000 be used like Mr. Dissolved Putty?

7. Is it too much, or is it OK after the sanding, filling and stuff to first put a layer of Mr. Surfacer, then one of Mr. Base White, or is it better, to fill the pin holes with the Mr. Surfacer, then just the Mr. Base White layer?

8. About Mr. Surfacer, is it diluted with Mr. Thinner or something else ?

9. I have read that if you thin too much Mr. Color paints, they’ll dry before even reaching the kit, what’s the ratio for Mr. Retarder(not sure if this is the correct spelling) ?

10. Average drying time for Mr. Color…

11. When painting, I have read some tutorials, and the best approach for my taste was the dark to light, because that’s what I did when painting War Hammer 40k miniatures, the thing here, if you’re going to paint for example a flesh tone, to paint with a clear color the dark parts, is it better to dilute the paint more and use less air pressure, and for the middle or main color use less diluted paint and more air pressure? I guess the question here is for details do you use more thinner and less pressure, and for bigger areas less thinner and more pressure?

12. What’s the deal with the pearl powders, do you just add it to the paint? or can you just use a bright clear coat to achieve the same effect?

13. To clean the airbrush, is Mr. Thinner OK?

14. Is there any trick or hidden dark art about this hobby that you’ll like to share?

15. What did you ate yesterday? :mellow:

16. Do you find this questions annoying? hehe :p

Well I guess that’s all that came to my mind at the moment… :wacko: if I have some other questions I’ll post them latter, first I have to see if I don’t get banned for posting such large and lame text…. hehe :D

Thanks in advance, for reading and or repliying to this post, maybe latter on I'll make a site an put there some pics of the progress on my kits, although I don’t think it will be of much interest to the experienced builders here…hehe but maybe to avoid posting large stuff here :sweat: … bye

Arieanna
04-24-2006, 03:21 PM
hmm lets see. ill try and answer what i can though some i dont know. hehe

1. After removing the flash and sanding the seam lines, the next step is the drilling of the holes for the wires that support the pieces of the kit, this is also the test fit, the question here is, to fill the gaps I have read that is good to use polyester putty, but does de filling comes before or after the painting/gluing of the pieces? is polyester putty really the only one you can use for that matter?

you'll want to fill gaps before you paint. depending on the kit and the way the parts are broken down you can pin and glue the pieces together then fill in the gap and sand it smooth so you dont see the seam anymore. this is great for skin especially since it would look really wierd to have a break in the shoulder if there was no clothing to hide it. hehe

2. Talking about drilling and wires, I use a 1/16 drill and #16 aluminum wire, is there a special wire or can it be just about anything? Does the wire have to be glued to the piece, or just make it a tight fit?

you dont HAVE to glue the pins in if you get a nice tight fit though gluing does add some strength to the joint. i usually glue the wire into one half of the joint and then wait to glue the other when i actually do final assembly. as for the type of wire it doesnt really matter. ive used paper clips, florists wire, and even coat hangers. all depends on the situation and size of the pieces im pinning.

3. Is staying at 400 grit sand paper OK, or do I have to go all the way to 600 or 800?

the finer the sand paper the smoother the finish. so that's all up to you. i usually end up wet sanding before i say im done to get a really smooth finish.

4. Do you really have to paint every piece separately, or can you glue the ones that won’t be hard to mask, and only leave the more complicated ones at the end? Because if you do one by one when you glue them you’ll have to paint that area again, or if you did a good test fit/gap fill this won’t be necessary?

you dont have to do each piece by itself. it usually depends on the way the kit is broken down that will determine how you do it. if the joints are easily hidden its easy to paint first, put together later. if you have large areas say of skin that you dont want that seam visable its sometimes easier to glue em together, fill the seam and paint that way.

5. I bought some Mr. Cement glue… but it seems that it’s not very good with large pieces, is there another brand that might work better than this one?

i've just been using a regular super glue. a 2part epoxy glue may work better for holding those large pieces. most are clear as well so you dont have to worry too much about it leaving colored goo all over :p

6. Can Mr. Surfacer 1000 be used like Mr. Dissolved Putty?

i think so? but dont quote me on that! i use mr dissolved putty for filling small holes. mr surfacer i think gets used more as a primer. again dont quote me on that. someone else may be able to give a better answer. lol

7. Is it too much, or is it OK after the sanding, filling and stuff to first put a layer of Mr. Surfacer, the one of Mr. Base White, or is it better, to fill the pin holes with the Mr. Surfacer, then just the Mr. Base White layer?

umm.. dunno. lol

8. About Mr. Surfacer, is it diluted with Mr. Thinner or something else ?

i think so :wacko:

9. I have read that if you thin too much Mr. Color paints, they’ll dry before even reaching the kit, what’s the ratio for Mr. Retarder(not sure if this is the correct spelling) ?

haven't used an AB yet so i'll leave this one to the pros :)

10. Average drying time for Mr. Color…

a brand ive never used so again, no comment ^^

11. When painting, I have read some tutorials, and the best approach for my taste was the dark to light, because that’s what I did when painting War Hammer 40k miniatures, the thing here, if you’re going to paint for example a flesh tone, to paint with a clear color the dark parts, is it better to dilute the paint more and use less air pressure, and for the middle or main color use less diluted paint and more air pressure? I guess the question here is for details do you use more thinner and less pressure, and for bigger areas less thinner and more pressure?

<looks around for the AB pros> ^^

12. What’s the deal with the pearl powders, do you just add it to the paint? or can you just use a bright clear coat to achieve the same effect?

i believe you just add the powder to the paint. a pearl effect is a bit different than a plain clear coat gloss effect. pearls tend to change color slightly depending on the light

13. To clean the airbrush, is Mr. Thinner OK?

i would think most paint thinners would work fine. it all depends on the type of paint you're using of course.

14. Is there any trick or hidden dark art about this hobby that you’ll like to share?

Sculpting is :wub: !!

15. What did you eat yesterday?

umm.... turkey sandwiches for lunch and chicken breast with stove top and green beans for dinner ^^

16. Do you find this questions annoying? hehe

Absolutely not! :D

redrage
04-24-2006, 08:18 PM
1. After removing the flash and sanding the seam lines, the next step is the drilling of the holes for the wires that support the pieces of the kit, this is also the test fit, the question here is, to fill the gaps I have read that is good to use polyester putty, but does de filling comes before or after the painting/gluing of the pieces? is polyester putty really the only one you can use for that matter?
Putty can be used before or after gluing the parts together depending upon the joint you are trying to fill. I use epoxy 2 part putty or lacquer based putty typically.

2. Talking about drilling and wires, I use a 1/16 drill and #16 aluminum wire, is there a special wire or can it be just about anything? Does the wire have to be glued to the piece, or just make it a tight fit?
I like to use 1/16”, 1/32” & .020” brass wire but any wire can do. Sometimes I use steel coat hangers wire for large parts.

3. Is staying at 400 grit sand paper OK, or do I have to go all the way to 600 or 800?
You can stay at 400 grit and create a nice finish if you wet sand it. You should get a nice satin finish that way. If you go to 12000 grit you will get a high gloss sheen. It all depends upon what you are after. Mostly I stop at 1000 grit wet sanding.

4. Do you really have to paint every piece separately, or can you glue the ones that won’t be hard to mask, and only leave the more complicated ones at the end? Because if you do one by one when you glue them you’ll have to paint that area again, or if you did a good test fit/gap fill this won’t be necessary?
All depends upon the part break down. I like to keep parts separate as much as possible. If you use a 2 part putty like Milliput and a release agent such as vegetable oil when fitting parts you can make the joints almost air-tight.

5. I bought some Mr. Cement glue… but it seems that it’s not very good with large pieces, is there another brand that might work better than this one?

6. Can Mr. Surfacer 1000 be used like Mr. Dissolved Putty?

7. Is it too much, or is it OK after the sanding, filling and stuff to first put a layer of Mr. Surfacer, then one of Mr. Base White, or is it better, to fill the pin holes with the Mr. Surfacer, then just the Mr. Base White layer?
I like to do about 2 coats of mr surfacer and wet sand them before proceeding.

8. About Mr. Surfacer, is it diluted with Mr. Thinner or something else ?
Mr Thinner should work fine. Plain Lacquer thinner will work too.

9. I have read that if you thin too much Mr. Color paints, they’ll dry before even reaching the kit, what’s the ratio for Mr. Retarder(not sure if this is the correct spelling) ?

10. Average drying time for Mr. Color…

11. When painting, I have read some tutorials, and the best approach for my taste was the dark to light, because that’s what I did when painting War Hammer 40k miniatures, the thing here, if you’re going to paint for example a flesh tone, to paint with a clear color the dark parts, is it better to dilute the paint more and use less air pressure, and for the middle or main color use less diluted paint and more air pressure? I guess the question here is for details do you use more thinner and less pressure, and for bigger areas less thinner and more pressure?

12. What’s the deal with the pearl powders, do you just add it to the paint? or can you just use a bright clear coat to achieve the same effect?
I typically add dry pearls to a clear coat or a very light color.

13. To clean the airbrush, is Mr. Thinner OK?
Mr Thinner should work fine. Plain Lacquer thinner will work too and it’s cheaper.

14. Is there any trick or hidden dark art about this hobby that you’ll like to share?
Always wear a respirator when shooting lacquers, wear eye protection when using power tools and have fun building models. Practice, practice, practice. And don't neglect important matters for model building. Models can wait.

15. What did you ate yesterday?
Pepperoni pizza with a pint of beer.

16. Do you find this questions annoying? hehe
No. If I did I wouldn’t answer them.

Cheers


This is how I do it but it isn't the only way: hey it works for me ;)

Masa
04-24-2006, 11:16 PM
1. After removing the flash and sanding the seam lines, the next step is the drilling of the holes for the wires that support the pieces of the kit, this is also the test fit, the question here is, to fill the gaps I have read that is good to use polyester putty, but does de filling comes before or after the painting/gluing of the pieces? is polyester putty really the only one you can use for that matter?

For some hard to reach positions, you will have to fill a seam after painting, but as a general rule - you want to have all the putty and sanding completed BEFORE you get to the painting stage whenever possible. There is no ONE putty to use for filling seams. Depending on the size of the gap you need to fill, some putty types fair better than others with less shrinkage and deformation. I use a variety of putty types for any one kit - polyester, epoxy and laquer putty.

2. Talking about drilling and wires, I use a 1/16 drill and #16 aluminum wire, is there a special wire or can it be just about anything? Does the wire have to be glued to the piece, or just make it a tight fit?

I prefer to glue my wire in for extra support. Anything that will reinforce the joint is acceptable. I think that sturdier materials are better than pliable types like aluminum wire. I use brass rods mostly and the gauge varies due to the size of the piece I need to support. For larger kits like 1/4 and 1/3 even something as large as a bolt or nail could be used. Don't skimp on the pinning!

3. Is staying at 400 grit sand paper OK, or do I have to go all the way to 600 or 800?

I use up to 1200 for wet sanding before the final coat.

4. Do you really have to paint every piece separately, or can you glue the ones that won’t be hard to mask, and only leave the more complicated ones at the end? Because if you do one by one when you glue them you’ll have to paint that area again, or if you did a good test fit/gap fill this won’t be necessary?

This is the fun part of painting the kit and you need to plan out your strategy before you get the sub-assemblies connected in a way that you can't reach the are for painting. You need to think about which areas might be problem areas beforehand and assemble the kit in a way that would make the painting go smoothly. For joints that occur on natural seamlines, you can attach the parts after painting, but for breaks on flesh areas and continuous smooth areas, you might have to paint the area after putty and assembly of the part.

5. I bought some Mr. Cement glue… but it seems that it’s not very good with large pieces, is there another brand that might work better than this one?

Almost any cyano-acrylate (super glue) will work. For really large pieces, I like to use a two-part epoxy for the bond.

6. Can Mr. Surfacer 1000 be used like Mr. Dissolved Putty?

Yes

7. Is it too much, or is it OK after the sanding, filling and stuff to first put a layer of Mr. Surfacer, then one of Mr. Base White, or is it better, to fill the pin holes with the Mr. Surfacer, then just the Mr. Base White layer?

You want to have the surface areas clean and smooth before applying the base coat. I like to have all the imperfections smoothed out first, then apply surfacer, then base coat.

8. About Mr. Surfacer, is it diluted with Mr. Thinner or something else ?

You can use Mr.Thinner but most any laquer thinner will do. Some thinners will cause it to dry too quickly so you just need to try them and see if it works for your application.

9. I have read that if you thin too much Mr. Color paints, they’ll dry before even reaching the kit, what’s the ratio for Mr. Retarder(not sure if this is the correct spelling) ?

I thin my Mr.Color paints with the GSI/Creos leveling thinner (supposedly it has a bit of that retarder mixed in) and I don't have any problems with it drying too fast. The ratio would vary depending on your application but Gunze's site says to try and not go over 10% if you are handbrushing, no more than 20% if you are airbrushing.

10. Average drying time for Mr. Color…

Tough question :sweat:
Depends on lots of factors - like your paint/thinner ratios, ambient temp, humidity, etc. etc. Airbrushing, I find the surface hard to the touch in like a minute.

11. When painting, I have read some tutorials, and the best approach for my taste was the dark to light, because that’s what I did when painting War Hammer 40k miniatures, the thing here, if you’re going to paint for example a flesh tone, to paint with a clear color the dark parts, is it better to dilute the paint more and use less air pressure, and for the middle or main color use less diluted paint and more air pressure? I guess the question here is for details do you use more thinner and less pressure, and for bigger areas less thinner and more pressure?

Its all personal taste - I know some people do spray light pressure with thinned paints, but I like to keep the paint the same consistenecy, keep the compressor on about 25-35 psi and use the airbrush to control the flow of air.

12. What’s the deal with the pearl powders, do you just add it to the paint? or can you just use a bright clear coat to achieve the same effect?

Yes, you add it to the paint - some colors work better than others so you need to experiment and see what works best for you.
13. To clean the airbrush, is Mr. Thinner OK?

Yes, again any laquer thinner will work and I like to use the cheaper stuff to clean with and save the expensive thinner for painting.

14. Is there any trick or hidden dark art about this hobby that you’ll like to share?

Before applying masking tape (I use Tamiya) to your model surface, stick it to your t-shirt first - takes just the right amount of tack off and you'll never have paint lift-off problems.

15. What did you ate yesterday? :mellow:

I was actually kinda ill yesterday (stupid cold) and ate nothing :cry:

16. Do you find this questions annoying? hehe :p

That's what we're here for ::thumb